拖鞋麵包 免揉意大利軟包 No Knead Ciabatta

不知大家還記得 Fat Angelo’s，在香港曾經有很多連鎖店的意大利餐廳，是肥丁和熊貓先生曾經約會的地方，可惜早幾年已全線結業。特別欣賞他們的意式白麵包(拖鞋麵包)，酥脆的外皮，軟軟的包心，蘸意大利黑醋橄欖油，吃麵包都值回票價。原來拖鞋麵包的歷史並不久遠，在 80 年代，意大利的麵包師夫因為法式長棍麵包三文治熱賣影響生意，決定自創一種意式三文治來抗衡，以傳統的意式麵包進行修改，研發出拖鞋麵包 Ciabatta，橫切開加入起司、肉類或蔬菜配料回烤，就是意式三文治帕尼尼 Panini。

歐式麵包的麵糰含水量偏高，烘烤時配合蒸氣，就能做出脆皮軟心的麵包。網絡上有很多食譜用普通無蒸氣的烤箱製作歐包，方法很多，有些用鑄鐵鍋，有些邊烤邊打開烤箱門噴，肥丁都有嘗試過，效果不錯，缺點是操作起來不容易掌握，變數大，不容易控制成品的效果。一直以來夢想擁有一台集蒸氣烘焙於一身的蒸烤箱，終於 BOSCH  Series 8 蒸烤箱讓肥丁夢想成真。

肥丁對這台蒸烤箱確實愛不釋手 ，有了它，從發酵到烘焙效果非常穩定。BOSCH  Series 8 有發酵功能，能把溫度和濕度設定到適合發酵的環境，每次發酵麵糰的時候，毋需視乎當日的室溫和相對濕度，特別花時間觀察麵糰的發酵情況作出調整，只要把麵糰放進去蒸烤箱裡，設定為發酵，蒸烤箱便能維持在指定的溫度，在加熱過程低溫釋放蒸氣， 比在室溫下發酵麵團更準確更有效率。烤麵包的時候，能手動設定添加蒸氣烘烤，並調控蒸氣強度，不用擔心時不時要打開烤箱噴水或被鑄鐵鍋燙手之類的問題困擾，輕鬆完成整個發酵烘焙的過程。

拖鞋麵包麵糰水量較高，黏手，所以肥丁選擇免揉配方，試做了幾次，到第 4 次開始掌握時間和手感，等到熊貓先生說「這個和當年在 Fat Angelo’s 吃過的口感最像」，才分享配方。熊貓先生不喜歡氣孔過大的，覺得吃空氣多於吃麵包，所以在發酵時間和水的比例方面做了一些調整。免揉麵糰真的很方便，剛烤好彈性非常好，皮脆軟心，缺點是因為麵包沒經過揉搓的麵筋，鎖水不佳，對麵包有要求的人可能會覺得不夠細緻，放置一晚很快就會變硬，放回蒸烤箱重新加熱，添加蒸氣又能保持食物的濕度，不致過乾。

這款拖鞋麵包是做來製作 Panini (食譜點這裏)，塑型時讓麵包維持一定的厚度，壓出絡紋後，仍能保持一定的厚度。

材料

• 高筋麵粉 Bread Flour  480 g  (這次用的牌子是 Waitrose DUCHY Organic Strong White Bread Flour )
• 原蔗糖 Turbinado Raw Sugar  1 小匙   (任何一種砂糖都可以)
• 岩鹽 Himalayan Salt  1 小匙  （任何幼鹽都可以)
• 速發酵母 Instant Yeast  1又 1/2 小匙
• 30ºC 暖水  Warm Water     350 ml + 15 ml
• 牛油果油 Avocado Oil   1 大匙 ( 初榨橄欖油或任何植物油都可以 )

做法

混合麵糰

1.  把麵粉放入大碗中，肥丁用長方形盤，倒出的時候比較容易勻分為 2 份。在左邊加入糖和鹽，在右邊用手指刮開一個小洞，放入酵母，暖水對準酵母倒入，加入牛油果油

第一次發酵

2.  用叉子攪拌均勻，成為濕潤的麵糰，蓋上濕布，放進蒸烤箱  40ºC 進行第一次發酵，約 2 小時，麵糰發大約 2 倍

BOSCH Series 8 蒸烤箱示範 ~ Menu > 蒸 > 麵糰發酵 > 40ºC > 2 小時

3. 工作台上撒些麵粉，發酵好的麵糰會產生麵筋，很黏手是正常的，用刮刀幫忙把麵糰倒在工作台上，觸摸麵糰前雙手也沾些麵粉，比較容易操作

第二次發酵

4. 用刮刀把麵糰分成 2 份，取一份麵糰，摺疊麵糰 (詳細做法看影片 ) ，把麵糰排在鋪有烘焙布的烤盤上，蓋上濕布，放回蒸烤箱進行第 2 次發酵，發酵約 1 小時

BOSCH Series 8 蒸烤箱示範 ~ Menu > 蒸 > 麵糰發酵 > 40ºC > 1 小時

第三次發酵

5. 取出麵糰，麵糰可能有些黏著濕布，慢慢掀開就可以了，直接在烤盤上再做一次摺疊麵糰的動作 (詳細做法看影片)，放回蒸烤箱進行第 3 次發酵，發酵約 1 小時，為免影響麵糰的外觀，這次肥丁不蓋濕布在麵糰上面，取另一個烤盤倒轉，上鋪濕布，放入蒸烤箱最高的烤架位置

BOSCH Series 8 蒸烤箱示範 ~ Menu > 蒸 > 麵糰發酵 > 40ºC > 1 小時

6. 由於預熱烤箱需要約 15 分鐘，第 3 次發酵至 45 分鐘，從蒸烤箱取出麵糰，預熱烤箱至 250ºC，蒸氣層數 3

BOSCH Series 8 蒸烤箱示範 ~ Menu > 上下火 >  蒸氣層數 3 > 250ºC > 60 分鐘 ( 真實的烘烤時間可以送進烤箱後再調較，當溫度下面的線條整條變成紅色，代表到達指定的溫度 )

7. 麵糰送進烤箱烘烤，迅速關上烤箱門，以免熱力流失，250ºC 先烤 10 分鐘，麵糰開始膨脹，麵糰底部出現弧度

8. 烤箱約 10 分鐘後，麵糰表面開始上色，肥丁不喜歡吃烤太焦的麵包，降溫至 200ºC 再烤 5 分鐘，打開放一張烘焙紙蓋在麵包表面，觀察麵糰表面焦色的程度

9. 降溫至 170ºC 再烤 5 分鐘，麵包烤熟後會聞到很香的麵包味，取出麵包，用刀敲擊麵包表面，會聽到咯咯的空心聲音，麵包表面硬脆，拿起來不太重，切開皮脆軟心有彈性，有漂亮的氣孔分佈，就成功了

10. 放在晾架上約 10 分鐘，麵包稍涼才切開享用

伸延食譜【雜菜帕尼尼】

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I wonder if everyone still remembers Fat Angelo’s, the Italian restaurant chain that once had many locations in Hong Kong, where I and Mr. Panda used to go on dates, but unfortunately, it has completely closed down in recent years. I particularly appreciated their Italian white bread (Ciabatta), with a crispy crust and soft interior, dipped in Italian black vinegar and olive oil, making the bread worth every penny. It turns out that the history of Ciabatta is not very long; in the 1980s, Italian bakers, affected by the popularity of French baguette sandwiches, decided to create an Italian sandwich to compete, modifying traditional Italian bread to develop Ciabatta, which is sliced open and filled with cheese, meats, or vegetable ingredients, then baked again, resulting in the Italian Panini sandwich.

European bread dough has a higher water content, and when baked with steam, it can create a crispy crust and a soft interior. There are many recipes online that use regular non-steam ovens to make European bread, employing various methods; some use cast iron pots while others involve spraying water by opening the oven door during baking. Fat Ding has tried several methods with good results, but the downside is that they can be difficult to master, with a lot of variables, making it hard to control the outcome. For a long time, I dreamed of having a steam oven that combines steaming and baking, and finally, the BOSCH Series 8 steam oven has made Fat Ding’s dream come true.

Fei Ding is indeed enamored with this steam oven. With it, the fermentation to baking process is incredibly stable. The BOSCH Series 8 has a fermentation function that can set the temperature and humidity to create an ideal environment for fermentation. Each time the dough is fermented, there is no need to depend on the day’s room temperature and relative humidity, nor to spend extra time observing the fermentation process and making adjustments. Simply place the dough in the steam oven, set it to fermentation, and the oven will maintain the designated temperature, releasing steam at low temperatures during the heating process, which is more accurate and efficient than fermenting dough at room temperature. When baking bread, you can manually set the steam addition and adjust the steam intensity, eliminating concerns about needing to open the oven to spray water or the risk of burning your hands with cast iron pans, making the entire fermentation and baking process effortless.

The dough for slipper bread has a higher water content, making it sticky, so Fei Ding chose a no-knead recipe. After trying it a few times, he started to master the timing and feel by the fourth attempt. He only shared the recipe when Mr. Panda said, “This tastes most like what I had at Fat Angelo’s back in the day.” Mr. Panda dislikes large air pockets, feeling that he eats more air than bread, so he made some adjustments to the fermentation time and water ratio. No-knead dough is indeed very convenient; right after baking, it’s very elastic with a crispy crust and soft inside. The downside is that since the bread hasn’t been kneaded, the gluten doesn’t lock in moisture well. For those who have high standards when it comes to bread, they might find it lacks refinement. If left overnight, it hardens quickly, but placing it back in a steam oven to reheat while adding steam helps maintain the moisture and prevents it from drying out too much.

This slipper bread is made for preparing Panini (recipe here). When shaping the bread, keep it at a certain thickness; after pressing out the patterns, it should still maintain a good thickness.

材料

• Bread Flour 480 g (the brand used this time is Waitrose DUCHY Organic Strong White Bread Flour)
• Turbinado Raw Sugar  1 tsp   (any type of sugar is fine)
• Himalayan Salt 1 tsp (any fine salt can work)
• Instant Yeast  1 and 1/2 tsp
• 30ºC Warm Water     350 ml + 15 ml
• Avocado Oil   1 tbsp (extra virgin olive oil or any vegetable oil can be used)

Mixed Dough

Place the flour into a large bowl. It’s easier to divide into 2 portions when using a rectangular mold. Add sugar and salt to the left side, and on the right side, use your finger to make a small well for the yeast. Pour warm water directly into the yeast, and add avocado oil.

First Fermentation

Mix well with a fork until it becomes a moist dough. Cover with a damp cloth and place in the steam oven at 40ºC for the first fermentation, for about 2 hours, until the dough rises to about double its size.

BOSCH Series 8 Steam Oven Demonstration ~ Menu > Steam > Dough Fermentation > 40ºC > 2 hours

Sprinkle some flour on the workbench. The fermented dough will develop gluten and will be very sticky, which is normal. Use a spatula to help transfer the dough onto the workbench. Before touching the dough, dust your hands with some flour to make the handling easier.

Second Fermentation

Use a scraper to divide the dough into 2 portions. Take one portion of dough and fold it (see the detailed method in the video), then place the dough on a baking tray lined with baking cloth. Cover it with a damp cloth and return it to the steam oven for the second fermentation, letting it ferment for about 1 hour.

BOSCH Series 8 Steam Oven Demonstration ~ Menu > Steam > Dough Proofing > 40ºC > 1 Hour

Third Fermentation

Remove the dough; it may be somewhat stuck to the damp cloth, so gently lift it off. Directly fold the dough again on the baking tray (for detailed instructions, see the video). Place it back in the steam oven for the third fermentation, which should last about 1 hour. To avoid affecting the appearance of the dough, do not cover it with a damp cloth this time. Instead, take another baking tray, turn it upside down, place a damp cloth on top, and put it in the highest rack position of the steam oven.

BOSCH Series 8 Steam Oven demonstration: Menu > Steam > Dough Fermentation > 40ºC > 1 hour

Due to the preheating of the oven taking about 15 minutes and the third fermentation lasting up to 45 minutes, remove the dough from the steam oven and preheat the oven to 250ºC with 3 layers of steam.

BOSCH Series 8 steam oven demonstration ~ Menu > Top and bottom heat > Steam layers 3 > 250ºC > 60 minutes (The actual baking time can be adjusted after placing it in the oven; when the line at the bottom reaches red, it indicates that the specified temperature has been reached.)

Place the dough in the oven for baking, quickly close the oven door to prevent heat loss. Bake at 250ºC for the first 10 minutes, during which the dough will start to rise and the bottom will curve.

After about 10 minutes in the oven, the surface of the dough will begin to color. Since I don’t like bread that is too burnt, reduce the temperature to 200ºC and bake for another 5 minutes. Open the oven and place a sheet of baking paper on the surface of the bread, observing the degree of browning on the dough’s surface.

Reduce the temperature to 170ºC and bake for another 5 minutes. When the bread is fully baked, a delightful bread aroma will fill the air. Remove the bread and tap the surface with a knife; you should hear a hollow sound. The surface of the bread should be hard and crispy, and it should feel light when picked up. When sliced, the crust should be crisp, the inside should be soft and elastic, and it should display a beautiful distribution of air holes, indicating success.

Place on the drying rack for about 10 minutes, let the bread cool slightly before slicing and enjoying.

伸延食譜【雜菜帕尼尼】

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