酵母馬拉糕 沒有泡打粉、小蘇打、吉士粉 Cantonese Steamed Sponge Cake Ma Lai Go (Baking Powder Free)

 

你的關注給我最大的鼓勵，訂閱肥丁 YouTube 頻道

• Facebook
• WhatsApp
• X
• Threads
• Pinterest
• Telegram
• Print
• Mail

酵母馬拉糕跟泡打粉做的口感是有差別的，若你不想加入膨脹劑，如泡打粉、小蘇打，也不想用人工香料如吉士粉、奶粉等。可以試試這配方。酵母馬拉糕切面很多孔洞，有彈力和韌性，蓬鬆柔軟，一定要趁熱吃啊﹗肥丁特別喜歡吃馬拉糕周圍的部份，馬拉糕接近蒸籠壁的水氣較少，口感特鬆軟好吃。

不加入泡打粉、小蘇打，要做出蓬鬆、柔軟的糕點，難度肯定有，過程中遇到不同的問題，如乾濕材料比例不對，發酵時間過短或過長，不熟悉蒸烤爐的特性等，吃了一週失敗的馬拉糕，終於看到曙光了﹗

傳統的馬拉糕，以麵粉、雞蛋、豬油、奶油為主要材料，混合長時間發酵，最後放在蒸籠內蒸熟，氣孔有三層，頂層直，低層橫。肥丁覺得難度太大，也不追求有沒有三層氣孔了，只要鬆軟就達到目的。把酵母、牛奶和鮮奶油混合，低溫冷藏成麵種，肥丁不喜歡用奶粉和吉士粉等加工太多的食材來增加香味，在牛奶裡面加入濃郁奶香口感較厚重的動物性鮮奶油，以及自製香草精，可以蓋過麵粉的粉味。

以植物油取代豬油及奶油。增城蔗糖是肥丁冬季時大量購入的，放在冰箱慢慢吃，過年後就買不到。因為甘蔗天寒當令，儲存更多糖分，蔗糖格外香甜，增城盛產甜美多汁的黑皮蔗，所以這種糖只有每年十二月至二月才有售。增城片糖是糖磚狀的，肥丁用研磨機打磨成粉，方便溶化在蛋液裡面。

打發蛋液以熱水加溫，有助加入更多空氣。肥丁還加入了一般馬拉糕不會有的材料 ~ 可可粉。傳統的馬拉糕深褐色是因為長時間發酵使麵糊顏色變深，為了中和酸味會加入鹼性小蘇打。肥丁用經過 Dutch process 程序處理的鹼化可可粉，本來是單純想要模仿傳統馬拉糕的深褐色，結果也有類似中和麵種酸性的作用，加入後，吃起來沒有酸種那種發酵味道，顏色又好看。

經過鹼化的可可粉被除去了可可豆發酵過程的酸味，令味道轉為溫和醇厚，更容易溶解於液體裡。不過顏色變深來自於鹼化過程的糖裂解，與可可豆內天然花青素，深色的可可粉風味會變淡，而不是愈濃郁，如包裝上沒有註明 Natural Unsweetened Cocoa Powder。溶解性好，顏色較深，適合沖調飲料及烘焙，就屬於鹼化可可粉。

麵種

• 牛奶 Fresh Milk  100 g
• 鮮奶油  Whipping Cream 30 g
• 速發酵母 Instant Yeast 1 小匙
• 低筋麵粉 Cake Flour 100 g

材料

• 增城片糖或黑糖粉 Slap Sugar 70 g
• 雞蛋 Egg 4 顆（肥丁用無激素中蛋，每顆約 50 g)
• 苦茶油或其他植物油 Camellia Oil  5 大匙
• 自製香草精 Homemade Vanilla Extract  1/4 小匙
• 低筋麵粉 Cake Flour 140 g
• Van Houten 無糖可可粉 Unsweetened Cocoa Powder  1 小匙

模具

• 20 cm  蒸籠

做法

1.   操作前一晚，製作麵種。混合牛奶及鮮奶油，加熱到 40°Ｃ，倒入一個有高度的容器裡，速發酵母，稍微搖晃一下，室溫靜置 10 ~ 15 分鐘　激活酵母，酵母溶解　膨脹，加入低筋麵粉，攪拌均勻，蓋保鮮膜，放進冰箱低溫發酵約 10 ~ 12 小時，麵糰發大兩倍就可以用，不建議冷藏超過 24 小時，舀起麵種　裡面有很多小氣孔，就可以了

2.　增城片糖剪細，用研磨機打磨成粉末

3.　預備熱水，增城蔗糖及雞蛋隔熱水打發，隔熱水加熱幫助糖快速溶解，開始以中速打發，糖溶解後調至最高速，加入空氣，蛋糊顏色變淺，體積膨脹約 2 倍，我打發約 3 分鐘

4.　加入苦茶油，自製香草精，用電動打蛋器攪拌均勻，產生乳化的效果，打發均勻就可以停機

5.　篩入無糖可可粉及低筋麵粉，用打蛋器低速混合麵糊，只要沒有粉粒，就可以停機

6.　直接從冰箱取出麵種，加入麵糊裡，用手提打蛋器輕輕攪拌，拉高再攪拌，比較容易把麵種拉開，這過程要有耐心，仔細混合，要看不到白色的麵種粉粒為止

7.　烘焙紙鋪好在蒸籠上，不分離的蛋糕模也可以，烘焙紙要預留高度讓麵糊上升

8.　倒入麵糊，留意麵糊的高度，放入蒸烤爐 35°C 發酵  50 分鐘，普通烤箱放一杯熱水進去，閉門發酵，效果也不多

9.　麵糊升高兩倍，發酵成功，蓋好，預熱蒸烤爐 100°C，100°C 蒸 30 分鐘。若是上鍋蒸，水滾才放上去大火蒸，即使用蒸烤爐也要蓋蓋子，否則會馬拉糕會塌

10.　出爐前用布巾卡著門，慢慢釋放蒸氣，若是上鍋蒸，也不要太快打開蓋子，留下少許空隙

11.　酵母馬拉糕要熱吃才鬆軟，切開，立即享用，小心燙手。酵母馬拉糕跟泡打粉做的口感是有差別的，馬拉糕表面光滑，切面很多孔洞，有彈力和韌性，就是成功了

小叮嚀

• 酵母馬拉糕冷卻後會硬化，可以放冰箱或室溫一夜，重新上鍋蒸約 10 分鐘便會鬆軟。不過蒸的次數愈多，澱粉質老化愈快，口感會變差

自製香草精

If you like my video, Please subscribe my YouTube channel

Yeast Ma Lai Gao has a different texture compared to those made with baking powder. If you don’t want to add leavening agents like baking powder or baking soda, and you also prefer to avoid artificial flavorings like custard powder or milk powder, you can try this recipe. Yeast Ma Lai Gao has many holes when cut, giving it elasticity and chewiness, and it is fluffy and soft—definitely best enjoyed hot! Fei Ding particularly loves the parts around the Ma Lai Gao, as the moisture near the steamer wall is less, resulting in a softer, more delicious texture.

To create fluffy and soft cakes without adding baking powder or baking soda is certainly challenging. During the process, various issues may arise, such as incorrect ratios of dry to wet ingredients, insufficient or excessive fermentation time, and unfamiliarity with the characteristics of steaming ovens. After a week of failed attempts, I finally see a glimmer of hope with Malakao!

Traditional Malakao primarily consists of flour, eggs, lard, and butter, mixed and fermented for an extended period, then steamed in a steamer until cooked. It has three layers of air pockets, with a flat top layer and a horizontal lower layer. However, I find the difficulty too high and am not concerned about achieving the three-layer structure. My goal is simply to achieve a soft texture. I combined yeast, milk, and heavy cream to create a dough starter stored in the refrigerator. I prefer not to use overly processed ingredients like milk powder and custard powder to enhance flavor. Instead, I add rich, thick animal-based heavy cream to the milk to mask the flour’s raw taste.

I replaced lard and butter with vegetable oil. In winter, I purchase a large quantity of Zengcheng cane sugar, which I slowly consume from the refrigerator, as after the New Year, it becomes unavailable. This is because sugar cane stores more sugar during the cold season, making it exceptionally sweet. Zengcheng is known for producing sweet, juicy black-skinned cane, so this type of sugar is only sold from December to February. Zengcheng raw sugar comes in block form, which I grind into powder with a grinder for easy dissolving in the egg mixture.

Whisking the egg mixture with hot water helps to incorporate more air. Fei Ding also added an ingredient that is not typically found in regular ma la gao ~ cocoa powder. The traditional ma la gao has a deep brown color because the batter ferments for a long time, causing the color to darken. To neutralize the acidity, alkaline baking soda is added. Fei Ding used Dutch process cocoa powder, which was originally intended to mimic the deep brown color of traditional ma la gao, but it also had a similar effect of neutralizing the acidity of the batter. After adding it, there is no sour fermentation taste like that of a sourdough starter, and the color looks appealing.

Alkalized cocoa powder removes the acidity from the fermentation process of cocoa beans, resulting in a milder, smoother taste, and it dissolves more easily in liquids. However, the deepening color comes from the sugar breakdown during the alkalization process, and the natural anthocyanins in cocoa beans. The flavor of dark cocoa powder becomes less intense rather than more concentrated, unless the packaging specifies Natural Unsweetened Cocoa Powder. With good solubility and a deeper color, alkalized cocoa powder is suitable for making beverages and baking.

Starter Dough

• Fresh Full Fat Milk  100 g
• Whipping Cream 30 g
• Instant Yeast 1 tsp
• Cake Flour 100 g

Ingredients

• Zengcheng brown sugar or black sugar powder 70 g
• Eggs (4 pieces, hormone-free medium-sized eggs, approximately 50 g each)
• Camellia Oil  5 tbsp
• Homemade Vanilla Extract  1/4 tsp
• Cake Flour 140 g
• Van Houten Unsweetened Cocoa Powder  1 tsp

Mold

• 20 cm bamboo steamer

做法

The night before the operation, prepare the dough starter. Mix milk and heavy cream, heat to 40°C, pour into a tall container, add instant yeast, shake slightly, and let it sit at room temperature for 10 to 15 minutes to activate the yeast, allowing it to dissolve and expand. Add cake flour, mix well, cover with plastic wrap, and place in the refrigerator to ferment at low temperature for about 10 to 12 hours; when the dough has doubled in size, it is ready to use. It is not recommended to refrigerate for more than 24 hours. Scoop up the dough starter; there should be many small air bubbles inside, and it’s good to go.

Zengcheng sugar slices are finely cut and ground into powder using a grinding machine.

Prepare hot water, and beat the sugar and eggs over the hot water to help the sugar dissolve quickly. Start beating at medium speed; once the sugar has dissolved, increase to the highest speed to incorporate air. The color of the egg mixture will lighten, and its volume will expand by about 2 times. I beat it for about 3 minutes.

Add bitter tea oil and homemade vanilla extract, then use an electric whisk to mix evenly to achieve emulsification; once well whipped, you can stop the machine.

Sift in the unsweetened cocoa powder and cake flour, and mix the batter on low speed with a whisk; you can stop the machine once there are no flour particles.

Take the dough starter directly from the refrigerator and add it into the batter, gently mixing with a hand whisk. Lift it up and mix again; this makes it easier to separate the dough starter. This process requires patience and careful mixing until no white particles from the dough starter are visible.

Line the steaming basket with baking paper; a non-separable cake mold will also work. Make sure to leave enough height for the batter to rise.

Pour in the batter, paying attention to the height of the mixture, and place it in the steam oven at 35°C for fermentation for 50 minutes. For a regular oven, place a cup of hot water inside and close the door to ferment; the effect is not much different.

If the batter doubles in size, fermentation is successful. Cover it up and preheat the steam oven to 100°C, then steam at 100°C for 30 minutes. If using a stovetop steamer, wait for the water to boil before placing it on and steam on high heat. Even when using the steam oven, ensure to cover it; otherwise, the steamed cake may collapse.

Before removing from the heat, use a cloth to hold the door, slowly releasing the steam. If steaming in a pot, do not open the lid too quickly; leave a small gap.

The steamed yeast cake should be eaten hot to be soft and fluffy; cut it open and enjoy immediately, but be careful as it can be hot. The texture of the yeast steamed cake is different from that made with baking powder; the surface of the yeast cake is smooth, with many holes on the cut surface, and it has elasticity and chewiness, indicating a successful outcome.

Tips

• Yeast sponge cake will harden after cooling. It can be stored in the refrigerator or at room temperature overnight, then steamed again for about 10 minutes to become soft. However, the more times it is steamed, the faster the starch will age, and the texture will deteriorate.

Homemade Vanilla Extract 自製香草精

[:]