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自製香菇貢丸 飽滿彈 Q 香菇野菜/起司流心餡料 Homemade Pork Balls Recipe

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貢丸由豬肉製做,在中國南部福建、廣東、台灣及香港都非常流行。台灣馳名的新竹貢丸,由於肉丸的重點步驟是利用活肉新鮮纖維的彈性「搥打」出來,而非用絞肉,閩南語中搥打的讀音「摃」讀作「貢」,「摃丸」因而得名。香港的貢丸會加入切碎的冬菇,沒有香菇的只稱為豬肉丸。

自己做肉丸,用料全不手軟,基本方程式是新鮮肉類、鹽、低溫、拍打。新鮮牛肉加鹽充分攪拌,打至「出膠」成為肉漿,利用肉組織內的一種鹽溶性蛋白質,通過充份攪拌形成網狀結構,造成彈性口感。最後加熱使蛋白質定型。這種蛋白質的乳化效果必須在 12ºC 以下才最好,肉類冷凍降溫才開始拍打,然後控制煮肉丸的水溫,就能做出彈牙爽口,味道鮮美的貢丸。

這種方法做出來的貢丸,肉味濃郁,肉汁鮮美,脆度和巿售相對只差那麼一點點,接受的程度當然要個人對肉丸的要求。肉丸是肉加工品的照妖鏡,肉質不新鮮有油耗味或腐敗味,在沒有添加物和簡單調味下,幾乎是很難掩飾的。豬肉丸一般用後腿肉 (豬展 ),便宜又瘦,肥丁做的貢丸不加入肥豬肉,為免肉丸太過結實,所以加入蛋白和地瓜粉,增加彈性。

貢丸除了加入乾香菇,肥丁還加入紅蘿蔔和玉米,增加膳食纖維,餡料還可以包入切達起司,做出流心的效果。

肉的選擇

  • 新鮮屠宰在街巿販買的「體溫肉」,可以請肉販先絞碎,回來後再冰
  • 肥丁比較常買超巿的「冰鮮肉」,冰鮮就是用冰包裹剛屠宰後的食物,以增長新鮮食物的保存期,這種肉要放在 0ºC ~ 4ºC 冷藏,保鮮期約 12 天,過後就會逐漸變質。這種肉販買時已放在冰箱冷藏,買回來後溫度比較容易控制。若能買到冰鮮黑毛豬,味道更鮮甜
  • 冷凍肉比較不建議,因為從常溫降到冰點以下的過程中,肉類中的水分會凝結產生冰晶,水變冰時的膨脹會破壞細胞,烹調前退冰的過程也會使細胞部分破損,食品的營養和風味都會受到一定影響,口感比「新鮮」及「冰鮮」稍遜一籌
  • 豬腿上肌肉在走動中反覆被使用,富含肌肉纖維,顏色鮮紅,純瘦肉型,很適合用來打肉丸

材料 (份量約 28 顆@ 25g )

肥丁手工坊🐷貢丸

◤材料 (份量約 28 顆@ 25g )

  • 冰鮮黑毛豬腿肉(豬展) Pork Shank 700 g
  • 肥豬肉 Fat Pork 70 g  
  • 岩鹽 Himalayan Salt 15 g 
  • 自制雞粉 Homemade Chicken Powder 3g
  • 自制香菇粉 Homemade Mushroom Powder 3g
  • 自制薑粉 Homemade Ginger Powder 1 g
  • 自制洋蔥粉 Homemade Onion Powder 3.5g 
  • 自制蒜粉 Homemade Garlic Powder 2 g
  • 現磨黑胡椒粉 Freshly Grated Black Pepper 0.5 g(喜歡重黑胡椒粉味道可酌量增加份量 ) 
  • 蛋白 Egg Whites 35 g
  • 泡香菇冰水 100~120 g (水量依據豬肉本身的含水量調整)
  • 木薯粉 Tapioca Starch 20 g 
  • Demerara原蔗糖或大古金砂糖  20 g
  • 迷你乾香菇 Dried Mushroom 10 顆

餡料

  • 乾香菇 Dried Mushroom  4 顆
  • 玉米粒 Corn Kernel    半根
  • 紅蘿蔔丁 Carrot 半根
  • 切達起司丁 Sharp Cheddar Cheese    50 g

工具

  • 廚師機 Stand Mixer、麵包機,或任何有攪打功能的調理機
  • 手打要強勁的臂力,肉丸需要在短時間內起筋,溫度才不會上升

做法

1. 乾香菇以 40°C 溫水浸泡約 2 小時,變柔軟就可以用。香菇水可保留起來做貢丸,放進冰箱冷藏成冰水。香菇去蒂,切丁,大小隨你喜歡,幼丁比較易混合肉泥 容易操作,大丁口感較好,但較難擠肉球

     

2. 切達起司 CHEDDAR 磚切丁,切達起司融化性很好 適合流心

3.  分開蛋白和蛋黃,蛋白放進冰箱冷藏備用

4. 冰鮮豬腿肉先冷凍 20 ~ 30 分鐘,降溫至 4 ~ 5°C,取出切丁,但也不能冰太硬以至於刀切不下,肉的溫度最理想在 12°C 或以下,超過 12°C 肉的蛋白質變性,較難產生乳化作用,肉丸就不爽彈 

5. 用調理機打成粗糙的肉泥,肉泥不用太細,肉筋打斷會影響起筋的效果

6. 加入岩鹽,地瓜粉,DEMERARA 原蔗糖,自製雞粉,自製香菇粉,自製薑粉,冰塊,冰過的蛋白及現磨黑胡椒粉

7. 啟動調理機,以低速拍打首 3 分鐘 (2速),肥丁的調理機最高速是 7 ,肉的溫度一定要低,若超過 12°C 要放回冰箱降溫,然後上調至中速 (3速) 拍打約 7 分鐘

8. 停機檢查肉糰,把攪拌缸壁的肉泥刮下來,肉筋開始形成,肉泥變黏,有大顆的紅色肉粒,就是還未完成

9. 加入冰過的香菇水,中速拍打約 5 ~ 7 分鐘,直至大顆的肉粒幾乎沒有,肉糰細緻黏調有彈性,表面水潤光澤,就是乳化(起膠)成功,不要拍打過度 打斷肉筋纖維,肉丸又會失去彈性 

10. 拿少許肉糰放在手掌中,緊握拳頭向虎口擠出肉球,稍微放鬆再收緊 重覆 3 ~ 4 次,擠肉丸不要把玩太久,掌心會升高肉糰的溫度  

11. 若要放入起司餡料,在中間挖個洞,放入切達起司丁,再拿少許肉泥,重覆放鬆收緊的動作,擠出肉丸,用沾濕的湯匙舀起肉球 放入冰水裡,完成所有肉丸才一起煮熟,就不怕出現肉丸下鍋時間先後不一,不確定是否煮熟的問題 

12.  若想加入香菇或野菜,肉糰打好後直接拌進去 攪拌均勻,餡料一定不能有多餘的水份,拌入香菇野菜後再加起司也可以,口味就隨你自己變化

13. 煮一鍋滾水,加少許冷開水降溫至 80°C,肉丸放入熱水中,水溫維持在 80°C ,加熱約 15 分鐘,水不要煮滾,貢丸浮起水面,就是熟了

14. 吃不完的貢,可放入保鮮袋,冷凍可保存 1 個月  

食譜刊載於《明報》家常便飯 2018 年 1 月 28 日

自製牛肉丸

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The meatballs are made from pork and are very popular in southern China, particularly in Fujian, Guangdong, Taiwan, and Hong Kong. The famous Hsinchu meatballs from Taiwan are characterized by their preparation method, which involves “pounding” fresh meat fibers for elasticity, rather than using ground meat. In Hokkien, the pronunciation of “pounding” is “kòng,” which sounds similar to “gòng,” giving rise to the name “gòng wán.” In Hong Kong, the meatballs often include chopped shiitake mushrooms, while those without them are simply referred to as pork balls.

Making meatballs at home involves generous use of ingredients, with the basic formula being fresh meat, salt, low temperature, and pounding. Fresh beef is mixed thoroughly with salt until it reaches a paste-like consistency, utilizing a salt-soluble protein within the meat’s structure; thorough mixing creates a network structure that results in a bouncy texture. Finally, heating sets the protein in place. The emulsification effect of this protein works best below 12ºC, so the meat should be frozen to cool it before pounding, and then by controlling the cooking water temperature, one can achieve meatballs that are chewy, delightful, and delicious.

This method produces meatballs that are rich in flavor, with delicious meat juices. The crispiness is only slightly less than that of commercially sold ones, and the acceptance level depends on individual preferences for meatballs. Meatballs serve as a litmus test for meat products; if the meat is not fresh and has an oily or spoiled smell, it is nearly impossible to hide these flaws without additives or simple seasonings. Pork meatballs are generally made from hind leg meat (pork shank), which is cheap and lean. The fatty chunks used to make meatballs do not include fatty pork to prevent the meatballs from becoming too tough, so egg whites and sweet potato starch are added to improve elasticity.

The meatballs not only include shiitake mushrooms, but also incorporate carrots and corn to increase dietary fiber. The filling can also wrap around cheddar cheese to create a molten effect.

How to Choose Meat

  • Freshly slaughtered “temperature meat” bought from street vendors can be ground by the butcher first, and then frozen at home. In contrast, the “ice-fresh meat” frequently purchased at supermarkets is wrapped in ice immediately after slaughter to extend the preservation period of the fresh food. This type of meat should be stored in a refrigerator at 0ºC to 4ºC, with a shelf life of approximately 12 days, after which it will gradually spoil.
  • The meat sold by vendors is typically already refrigerated, making it easier to maintain a controlled temperature after purchase. If you can find ice-fresh black-haired pig, the flavor is even sweeter.
  • Frozen meat is generally not recommended because during the process of cooling from room temperature to below freezing, the moisture in the meat crystallizes, and the expansion when water freezes damages the cells. The thawing process prior to cooking can also partially damage the cells, affecting the nutrition and flavor of the food, resulting in a texture that is somewhat inferior compared to “fresh” and “ice-fresh” meat.
  • The muscle in the ham is used repeatedly during movement, rich in muscle fibers, with a bright red color and is pure lean meat, making it very suitable for making meatballs.


Ingredients (approximately 28 pieces @ 25g each)

  • Pork Shank 700 g
  • Fat Pork 70 g
  • Himalayan Salt 15 g
  • Homemade Chicken Powder 3 g
  • Homemade Mushroom Powder 3 g
  • Homemade Ginger Powder 1 g
  • Homemade Onion Powder 3.5 g
  • Homemade Garlic Powder 2 g
  • Freshly Grated Black Pepper 0.5 g (can increase slightly for a stronger black pepper flavor)
  • Egg Whites 35 g
  • Ice Water for Soaking Mushrooms 100~120 g (adjust water amount based on the pork’s moisture content)
  • Tapioca Starch 20 g
  • Demerara Sugar 20 g
  • Dried Mini Mushrooms 10 pieces


Fillings

  • Dried Mushroom  4 pcs
  • Corn Kernel   Half
  • Carrot Half
  • Sharp Cheddar Cheese    


Equipment

  • Stand mixer, bread machine, or any cooking appliance with mixing capabilities.
  • To achieve strong arm strength, the meatballs need to be kneaded quickly to prevent the temperature from rising.


Instructions

❶ Dried shiitake mushrooms should be soaked in warm water at about 40°C for about 2 hours until they become soft and ready to use. The mushroom soaking water can be reserved to make meatballs by storing it in the refrigerator to cool into ice water. Remove the stems from the mushrooms and chop them into small pieces, sized to your liking; small pieces mix more easily with the meat paste, making it easier to handle, while larger pieces have a better texture but are more difficult to shape into meatballs.

      

❷ Cheddar cheese diced into bricks has excellent melting properties, making it suitable for molten dishes.

分開蛋白和蛋黃,蛋白放進冰箱冷藏備用

冰鮮豬腿肉先冷凍 20 ~ 30 分鐘,降溫至 4 ~ 5°C,取出切丁,但也不能冰太硬以至於刀切不下,肉的溫度最理想在 12°C 或以下,超過 12°C 肉的蛋白質變性,較難產生乳化作用,肉丸就不爽彈 

用調理機打成粗糙的肉泥,肉泥不用太細,肉筋打斷會影響起筋的效果

❻ Add rock salt, sweet potato starch, DEMERARA raw cane sugar, homemade chicken stock powder, homemade mushroom powder, homemade ginger powder, ice, chilled egg whites, and freshly ground black pepper.

❼ Start the mixer and beat on low speed for the first 3 minutes (speed 2). The maximum speed of the mixer is 7, and the meat’s temperature must be low; if it exceeds 12°C, return it to the refrigerator to cool down, then increase to medium speed (speed 3) and beat for about 7 minutes.

❽ During the downtime inspection of the meatballs, scrape the meat paste off the walls of the mixing tub; the meat strands begin to form, the meat paste becomes sticky, and there are large red meat particles, which indicates that it is not yet finished.

❾ Add the chilled mushroom water and beat at medium speed for about 5 to 7 minutes, until the large meat grains are almost gone, and the meat mixture is finely sticky and elastic, with a moist and glossy surface. This indicates successful emulsification (gelation); do not overbeat, as it will break the meat fibers and cause the meatballs to lose their elasticity.

❿ Take a small meatball in your palm, tightly clench your fist to squeeze the meatball out through the gap, slightly relax before tightening again. Repeat this 3 to 4 times, and do not play with the meatball for too long, as the temperature in your palm will warm it up.

⓫ To add the cheese filling, create a hole in the middle and place in diced cheddar cheese, then take a small amount of meat mixture, repeating the action of loosening and tightening, shape into meatballs, and use a wet spoon to scoop the meatballs into ice water. Once all the meatballs are prepared, cook them together to avoid issues with uneven cooking times and uncertainty about whether they are fully cooked.

⓬ If you want to add mushrooms or wild vegetables, mix them directly into the meatball after it’s prepared and stir well. The filling must not have any excess moisture; after mixing in the mushrooms or vegetables, you can add cheese as well, allowing you to adjust the flavor to your liking.

⓭ Bring a pot of water to a boil, then add a little cold water to cool it down to 80**°C. Place the meatballs in the hot water, maintaining the water temperature at 80°**C, and heat for about 15 minutes. Do not let the water boil; when the meatballs float to the surface, they are done.

⓮ If you can’t finish the dumplings, you can put them in a ziplock bag and freeze them for up to 1 month.

食譜刊載於《明報》家常便飯 2018 年 1 月 28 日

自製牛肉丸 Homemade Beef Ball

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